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Anti-aging, what makes A-ol more effective? Emerging brands can do this

Mar 23,2022 | HISEEK PRETTY

If 2018 is the year of niacinamide, then 2019 is the year of A alcohol (retinol) - many domestic and international brands, large and small, are launching A alcohol and its related products, and some up-and-coming brands are even simply debuting with A alcohol products.

But what is the performance of these large and small brands of A alcohol products? Knowing that A-alcohol products have been developed for decades, do these products have a chance to surpass the classic products of the big manufacturers?

This article we will talk about the technology of A alcohol, both for the composition of the party to come to an in-depth understanding, or some brands that want to develop A alcohol products, or even consumers daily shopping for products, have a role to play.

Before answering these questions, let's take a look at why it's A-ol that's hot and not the others?

 To nominate the Golden Gladiator of Anti-Aging, A alcohol can surely get that glory. Acne, pore refinement, skin tone firming, anti-aging, epidermis thickening, etc., etc., every single function can be associated with A alcohol - and it is because it is such an all-rounder that A alcohol is gaining recognition. Among the big and small brands of A alcohol products, you will find the most A alcohol based products in the American line. 

Why are they so keen on A alcohol?
It has something to do with American cosmetic regulations (where highly concentrated ingredients can be used), as well as ethnicity.

 It is said that Caucasians have been puzzled by the age of Oriental women because they can't tell how old they are from their appearance. A woman who looks like she's in her 20s may actually be almost 40 (talking about you, aren't you?). .

 Conversely, aging in America is all about putting wrinkles on your face, and a girl who looks like she's in her 30s at first glance could actually be a recent college student.

 This difference is caused by the fact that Caucasians are too prone to photo-aging! In addition, white people also like to sunbathe, advocate the beauty of tanning, but also aggravate the symptoms of photoaging of the whole body, the beach can often see women's chest a piece of dense sun spots. It is really snow on the frost, summer plus sunshine. 

Aging fast + accelerated photo-aging, there is inevitably a need for rejuvenation, so A alcohol is hugely popular in the US, with a variety of effective products in various concentrations, some even exceeding 1.5, 2.5%, which is amazing.

Some people ask, how come there is no Aol fever in Europe when there are also white people?

That is because the European A alcohol product use limit is 0.3%. Can not reach the effect of the fierce drug, A alcohol to show the effect is much weaker. So, this is also due to the different regulations produced by different markets. But in any case, the following American classic products, are empirically proven to be good.

A-alcohol has its drawbacks
It would seem difficult to outperform these classic products, after all, major manufacturers such as Johnson & Johnson, have not given up on researching the application of A alcohol. However, there are some ingredient manufacturers in the cosmetic industry that have strong R&D capabilities and will never ignore research into Aol, a prime ingredient for its effectiveness.

Therefore, they will also be based on the shortcomings and inconvenience when applying A alcohol , to develop suitable raw materials for the use of formulators in large and small factories. What if it is done? Let's look at the disadvantages of A alcohol. 

A alcohol application has many disadvantages, such as instability, irritation, etc.. So much so that with a slightly higher concentration, many people feel dryness, redness, peeling and other problems and can only choose a low concentration (<=0.3%). In addition, due to the problem of skin absorption, many A alcohol products are not highly utilized.

 As the first R&D engineer in China to conduct scientific research on skin care ingredients, I wrote an article on my blog back in 2012 with a description of the stability and irritation issues of A alcohol. From 2012 to 2019, although it took seven years before Aol was considered hot in China. But these articles can also be always present on the Internet as classic articles.

How can we overcome the shortcomings of A-alcohols?
Given these shortcomings of A-alcohols, how can we develop better A-alcohol products and especially how can we technically surpass the classical products? 

This is exactly what we are going to talk about in this article, which is the improvement of raw material manufacturers to A alcohol - wrapping technology. In fact, it is just a matter of two aspects, one is to increase stability, the other is to reduce irritation, if there are other criteria to consider, it is to improve utilization. 

In the past 20 years, with the advancement of technology, raw material suppliers have developed a number of A-alcohol wrapping ingredients that are convenient for formulators to use. We have selected a few of these ingredients as a reference for you when choosing a product. (Images are from the respective suppliers) 

Cylasphere™ Retinol 10S A-alcohol microcapsules Source:BASF
Ingredient list composition: water, butylene glycol, wild soybean (GLYCINE SOJA) oil, retinol, pentanediol, carbomer, tocopherol, gum Arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL) gum, propylene glycol alginate (note that this large list of ingredients, are made to stabilize A alcohol a raw material, note the difference between ingredients and raw materials)

 This is the BASF family of raw materials, which is a microsphere composed of [Gum Arabic tree] and [propylene glycol alginate], which is wrapped in a mixture of raw materials composed of A alcohol.

Arapahoe gum is a polysaccharide used in the food industry and propylene glycol alginate is a polysaccharide extracted from brown algae, also used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Both of these ingredients are very safe for the skin. Thus, transdermal absorption is not a concern.

 When these microspheres enter the skin, they are hydrolyzed and broken off by the action of enzymes in the skin, at which point the A-alcohol is released, thus providing a slow-release function. This not only facilitates absorption, but also helps to reduce irritation.

The raw material itself also contains antioxidants, so of course the use of A alcohol will be more stable.

The manufacturer's data shows that retinol microspheres are less irritating than retinol alone, have better sustained release, and are also much more bioavailable. 

Glycosphere Encapsulation Bionanosphere Nanospheres Source: KOBO
INCI: Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium branched starch/glycerol cross-linked polymer/lecithin This is a nanocapsule that protects unstable active ingredients while enhancing stability and permeability.

The innermost core , made of modified starch, is hydrophilic. The middle layer is lipophilic. The outermost layer is a phospholipid layer. This structure is able to encapsulate both water-soluble substances (internal) and oil-soluble substances (e.g. A-alcohols). It is thus widely used and can encapsulate different unstable ingredients (VC, polyphenols, etc.). 

Many American products, such as Estee Lauder and other major brands are using ingredients (not necessarily A-alcohols) with this encapsulation technology. US formulators should be familiar with it, but domestically it is obviously less known to formulators due to weak sales force. 

MultiSal® Retinol Source: SALVONA
INCI names: silica, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, retinol, polysorbate 20, polyethyleneimine-10, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, lauryl laurate, corn (ZEA MAYS) starch, hydrolyzed corn starch, hydrolyzed corn starch octenyl succinate

 MultiSal® technology provides further reinforcement of the retinol, as two layers are wrapped. The retinol is first encapsulated in a submicron microsphere and then in a larger microsphere. Upon application, i.e. when applied to the skin, the (outer) microsphere ruptures, releasing the submicron sphere containing the retinol. The submicron spheres then slowly release retinol over time.

As shown in the experiment comparing the percentage of MultiSal® versus non-encapsulated A alcohol retained on the skin after four hours of using a product containing 0.05% retinol. As you can see, the use of this encapsulation technique results in a much slower release rate than the free state.

 The significance of this slow release is that when you use it at night, the A-alcohol continues to be released on the skin all night long and does its job, rather than being absorbed or destroyed all at once, as is the case with regular A-alcohols, which produce irritation while not being effective enough. 

LipoLink Technical source: sethic
INCI: Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Butyl Hydroxytoluene, Tocopherol LipoLink is an encapsulation technology that differs from traditional liposome technology. A brief description of the features of this encapsulation technology is provided.

Its actives are bound to liposomal phospholipid membranes, note the word bound, it stands for stronger adhesion. In contrast, the oil soluble actives of the normal liposome technology are embedded in spaces composed of phospholipid membranes, which are not as tightly packed.

 The advantage of this is that regular liposomes may not be able to transport the actives together into the target cell because they "disconnect" early in the transport process because the phospholipid layer of the liposome breaks down. Lipolink, however, is a technology that allows the phospholipid fragments to firmly hold the active ingredient (A alcohol), and when the phospholipid layer breaks into pieces, it can take the A alcohol with it into the cell.

On the left is a normal liposome, on the right use Lipolink And it is within the cell that A alcohol acts: inside the cell it turns A alcohol into A acid, which enters the nucleus and then binds to receptor proteins, activating intracellular gene expression and so on. So in this way, A alcohol not only performs a transdermal function, but also helps to act through the cell membrane. Maximizing the use of A alcohol.

 Lipolink's A alcohol is wrapped with both 3% retinol and 5% retinyl palmitate. There are also numerous antioxidants and phospholipids encapsulated, making the product unafraid of oxygen and heat.

Experimental data show that A-alcohols using this encapsulation technique take less time to reach maximum absorption than free or regular liposomal retinoids, and after 4 hours this difference almost increases by a factor of 1. The above technique is only one of many options, but it is sufficient - although a bit expensive.

Write at the end

The seekpretty A-alcohol night cream has been considered an A-alcohol classic for over a decade, all in the same packaging and formula, until recently upgraded.

The unique instability and irritation of A-alcohols requires us to choose airtight packaging, the freshest product available, and how to start with a low concentration.

We also know that dryness, itching, peeling, and stinging may occur after use. These are all basic common sense. We also know that most of the big traditional manufacturers like seekpretty need to fill inert gas conditions before they can put A alcohol into production, after all, once A alcohol touches oxygen, it will deteriorate; so the packaging of traditional A alcohol products is also very careful, such as in aluminum tubes, or in vacuum bottles. This approach to production a little trouble, formulation technology trouble a little, but the overall cost of materials and production or save. However, the majority of cosmetic factories do not have protective gas-filled production equipment. However, it is not impossible to produce. 

If you use a variety of encapsulated A-alcohol ingredients, you can easily and quickly develop a formula that can be produced in a factory without protective gas. The same good results can be achieved. It would just cost a little more. 

Up-and-coming brands and whatnot can also use these technologies to cut into the A-alcohol market - it's not just the big brands that can use A-alcohol technology.

 The spring that belongs to the A-alcohol size brand products will come along with these stable technologies of A-alcohol ingredients. 2020, you will see more A-alcohol products. As for, in this wave of A alcohol products, who has the real material, who is bragging, you can take a look at such ingredient list probably. Of course, the above terms may be relatively raw and do not need to remember, but when necessary, you can take it out and turn it over, and you will have a number in mind.

Back to Skin Care.